North East F-Body Association
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North East F-Body Association (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/index.php)
-   First Generation (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4)
-   -   pulled the front clip off the Z/28 (http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/showthread.php?t=3268)

ILuvPizzaTimes10 09-28-2011 01:56 PM
all good stuff!!!! Good Luck with it. that motor looks AWESOME!!!

KLAB 10-02-2011 05:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 (Post 55051)
you are doin the proper head work to run unleaded right? 11.5 on a cast head you are asking for a hole in a piston. 100 octane Might solve it lead additive is an option or get aluminum heads? and pain them to "look" correct but save all the original pieces?
This man speaks truths. Cracked the #6 piston on my step dads domed 1970 LT1 that way. Lower compression iron heads killed power but runs great now. :klab:

jeff68 10-02-2011 08:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidS (Post 56280)
I read in a whole bunch of postings that:
...b) when you are primering bare metal, you should not use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint
...
I contacted Eastwood Tech Help and found that Rust Encapsulator is supposed to be fine over bare metal as a primer. They told me to ensure that the surface was scuffed with 180-220 grit paper and properly cleaned. I used it as a bare metal primer on the firewall and radiator support of my Land Rover. I sandblasted the parts, then gave then a quick once-over with 220 grit before cleaning and spraying on the Encapsulator. After dry, it was top coated with either military CARC-substitute enamel paint or Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black enamel. So far, so good.

DavidS 10-02-2011 09:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KLAB (Post 56444)
This man speaks truths. Cracked the #6 piston on my step dads domed 1970 LT1 that way. Lower compression iron heads killed power but runs great now. :klab:
I'll probably be going with 100 octane and a lead additive.

DavidS 10-02-2011 09:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff68 (Post 56450)
I contacted Eastwood Tech Help and found that Rust Encapsulator is supposed to be fine over bare metal as a primer. They told me to ensure that the surface was scuffed with 180-220 grit paper and properly cleaned. I used it as a bare metal primer on the firewall and radiator support of my Land Rover. I sandblasted the parts, then gave then a quick once-over with 220 grit before cleaning and spraying on the Encapsulator. After dry, it was top coated with either military CARC-substitute enamel paint or Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black enamel. So far, so good.
Thanks Jeff. This is good to know. I have 4 or 5 cans here.

DAWG 10-03-2011 10:51 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidS (Post 56452)
I'll probably be going with 100 octane and a lead additive.
hollands garage will help ya out .
they sell 50 gal barrels of the fuel (leaded or unleaded)
better off with the leaded gas, those lead additives are not so great.

DavidS 10-03-2011 12:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAWG (Post 56468)
hollands garage will help ya out .
they sell 50 gal barrels of the fuel (leaded or unleaded)
better off with the leaded gas, those lead additives are not so great.
Sounds good. Thanks Dawg!!!

ls6monte 10-03-2011 04:21 PM
If your interested David, my friend is selling a new drum of C16. I'm not sure on price but I can find out if you want me to.

DavidS 10-04-2011 11:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ls6monte (Post 56497)
If your interested David, my friend is selling a new drum of C16. I'm not sure on price but I can find out if you want me to.
Thanks for the offer Ron!!! At this point though, I am not sure. I will talk to Norm at Precision and see what he thinks.

DavidS 10-17-2011 08:18 PM
Engine is done, but Norm is out this week. Should be on the dyno next week.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-28-07_375.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...-29-06_179.jpg


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