Little help on the Heads and Cam Plan Man
 

So next spring I would like to do heads and cam. I have a stock bottom end so I have to keep this tame enough to not be to harsh on the rest of the motor.

My question is..... LE2 Heads with 230/234 .592/.592 111 LSA - 2200-6400 RPM? OR something similar from AI. Not sure what because the AI site is not as well aimed towards beginners such as myself lol.

Also what supporting mods would I need to run this kind of setup as reliably as possible? I already have LT headers, ORY pipe, catback, full Intake also a 3200 stall and 373s. I know I will need a TB (58mm?), injectors (30lb? is this right?), Intake manifold port and polish, and a tune. But I have been reading that significant work needs to be made to the valvetrain.

Any price estimates/ breakdowns as to what all this will cost?

Any advice or info is greatly appreciated. If I am going to take this project on I want all the knowledge I can get and to get it done right the first time!

I am not worried about the 4L60E or the 10 bolt. Let um go boom haha!

52mm tb will be more then enough. Have the intake port matched by who ever your getting the heads from. Set up a dyno tune with someone. Don't do mail order on a cam head setup. It will be closish but can cause problems.

Injectors and a fuel pump are gonna be a good idea, possibly an adjustable FPR. What do you have for suspension mods so far? I know it isn't what you want to hear but the engine should be the last thing you build for a car

email Lloyd and tell him what ur goals r and ask him what setup would get u meet them. Hell let u know what supporting mods r needed to make the numbers. Then it comes down to being able to put the power to the ground. Who cares how much HP u have if u cant get traction

My point exactly! Money might be better spent elsewhere at this venture for you. Everybody always wants HP HP HP. I made that mistake on my first couple and then the car sits broken most of the time. with the T/A I built the car before the engine.Case in point when I had my car with just the GMPP hotcam in it I was running with or surpassing cars that had head work. They made 425RWH but couldn't put it to the ground, I made 385RWH and got every ounce of it to the pavement. End result was mid 11's on a $399.00 cam. Just saying it is worth thinking it through before you pull the trigger on anything

What do you suggest for suspension mods? I was planning on doing subframes, a dennys driveshaft and a wolfes 6 point over the winter. I know these arnt suspension components but thats all I have really considered for pre H/C swap mods. I was just going to wait for the 9" before I got to worried about traction and add a set of bogarts. Id love to do that now since I cant get any traction as it is but I would like to squeeze some more miles out of the 10 bolt lol and Im only guessing but I think the thing would be toast with a couple hard launches on drag tires. Ive only been to NED once to race anyways and dont plan on being there much. My best time was with my friend, a cooler with 4 gallons of water, 36 beers, a handle of vodka, and spare tire in the car. Ran a 13.6 at 101 with very little brake torquing and moderate wheelspin. I was told to loose the passenger and get a helmet hahah. Took all the shit out and couldnt do better than a 14.2 because I had zero traction with no brake torque at all.

I guess my dream would be to find all sorts of traction on the bogarts when the very rare time occurs that Im at the track and to be able to break um loose at a whim when on my ZR1 rims. The latter of the two being more important to me. Is it childish to want a car that will easily break um loose at 30mph? hehehe Oh and corner carving does nothing for me. Thats why I want a point and squirt muscle car and not a Porsche.

"mid 11's on a $399.00 cam."

mid 11's??? thats nuts! Ive heard of a few cam only lt1s doing low 12's and I thought that was excellent!

ur tires must suck then to b honest. i ran my best on my ZR1s w/ MT et street radials. before u start goin nuts on a cage should look at the little shit. control arms, phb, how worn is ur suspension? changing ur street tires to DRs will make a world of a differnce.

I have 41k original miles so Id like to think that the suspension is hardly worn at all. The car was owned by an old lady and babied for the first 24k miles from new in 96-09. I am the second owner and I have brought it from 24k this time last year to 41k now. I have a truck now to so the car will hopefully only be seeing 5-7k miles a year from here on out. It has never been driven in the winter and I dont even let it see rain any more.

Yes the tires indeed suck. Sumitomos suck big time lol but no better tire to burn the shit out of at their price.

About the DR's... like I said I would guess that any good tire would make pretty quick work of the 10 bolt. I would like to get another year out of the 10 bolt before buying a 9" for a winter of 2011 install. Then after the 9" was in I would get another set of rims with drag slicks. I was thinking 15" bogarts because they look cool as hell, have reduced friction with front skinnys over my 275s, significant rotational mass reduction, and I would assume all sorts of traction with large sidewall slick rear tires. Which would all be great with the H/C swap. Then most importantly of all I can still roast my shitty cheap tires on my ZR1 rims as much as I would like.

The cage is kinda necessary because all verts under 13.49 (remember I am at best of 13.6 with about, oh idk, 250-300 extra pounds in the car and the worst tires I could buy) have to have a 5 point to run at NED. I wouldn't get it otherwise because I think a cage looks silly on a vert. So I plan on a bolt in version that I will put in when going to the track and take back out when I am not.

What is most important to keep in mind is that I am not very concerned with track times right now. Im not a track rat. I will be mainly going to car shows and cruises with a whole lot of burnouts and parking lot powerslides along the way. I guess what I am trying to say is that I dont really care if my car is as fast as it could be. Speed is fun but getting no grip at speed when I plant the pedal is much more fun to me. That being said on the very VERY rare occasion I do go to the track I would like to see grip. The hooligan aspect is whats most fun about these cars to me. I only drive the car when I want to go out and cause a ruckus lol.

ur 10 bolt will hold with a auto. i havent blown my 10 bolt yet in mine yet and mines with a 6spd.

So I guess what I should ask..... is my stock suspension adequate for a H/C pack if I have proper tires?

Also what mods do you have 941LE?

LTs, catback, LCAs, phb, QA1s, cc304 cam, 1.5 rrs, zr1s have MTs, summit stars have QTPs, 4.10s, tq arm relco bracket, intake. the other usual shit.

Any thoughts on whether or not the suspension is adequate for my needs?

LCA's, Panhard bar, torque arm, SFC,s maybe a STB. Better trans cooler, maybe a deep pan. drag radials, maybe skinnies. All of these will get you faster as much or more then adding just HP. Did you do any intake/exhaust work yet? To be honest the suspension isn't adequate for a stock engine if you plan on doing anything except over the road driving. You'll have to deal with wheel hop more then anything

no its awesome haha...i just experienced that recently after doin 3.73s

as for suspension mines bone stock 130k and i have no issues at the track with 342hp...tires are everything at the track, get urself a set of QTPs and ull def hook and i wouldnt be worried about ur 10 bolt breaking right away, they arent as weak as some people think and way less common to go in a auto without beating the bag out of it on a constant basis.

try having it break loose at 70.....no fun....well maybe a little

Yes LT's, ORY, magnaflow, LPE CAI, 1LE elbow, de-screened MAF, TB Air Foil. LT4 KM, PCM for less tune. 3200 Stall converter, 373s with a girdle. OTVC Taylor wires, iridium plugs. 315 rear tires, 275 fronts.

And LS1 Queen I can break um loose at 30 with my shitty hard tires but Im looking to lay a good strip of rubber at that speed hahaah!

Yeah man, i think I'd get your suspension/chassis squared away first, then tires. Then I'd upgrade the fuel system and THEN start looking for more ponies

haha should have seen my car with the tires that were on the wheels i just bought..thing layed like 300 ft of rubber just stomping on the gas spinning thru first and second it was awesome lol still spins with the nittos but def not as bad lol

10 bolt
 

well 6 speed 2500 launch = snap pion and diff split in have :Mornin:

:tapfoot:

Ouchhhh

That's what I thought. Its actually worse from sitting most of its life instead of traveling how its meant to. All the weight of the car squashing the suspension constantly just squashes it. Your rear springs are probably sagging and a lot lower looking then the front. Start doing some launches and it starts getting lower lol. I got a full suspension setup out of a junkyard for 100 bucks so I'm all set just gonna get some WS6 rear springs and should be a good setup. Like everyone said its not all about going gung-hoe on the motor, the stock motor can do a lot of work if the rest of the car is set up right for it. Try to focus on simplifying the car and getting power to the ground. Just look at Tony's bolt on only 95 running 12.3s. and watch what I can do in the spring :D I'll have the suspension and essentially full bolt ons everything but engine and tranny mods. :D