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#1
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Anyone ever replaced a window motor by just removing the motor alone?
ShoeBox Window Motor Replacement YouTube Repair Video I've already drilled the door panel and can see the rivets, I've ordered the new motor (AutoZone), and plan to complete the job this weekend. Right now my biggest concern is how easy is it to re-align the motor?
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1996 Z-28: Bolt-Ons, Harwood Cowl Hood, 18" Black Z06s 2005 Subaru Legacy GT - Stage 2 - My DD 2012 Audi S4 - The Wifee's Ride (Wait - the wife drives the fastest of the stable? )
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#2
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It's not bad at all did both sides just take your time because there will be some swearing going on its crammed to get your arms in there but if its held up with a c clamp aligning it back up will be simple
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![]() 1999 Camaro SS480 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGXXuq9T2TI G,M. Precision Welding and Fabrication GMPrecisionWelding@gmail.com |
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#3
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I said screw it and replaced the whole track and motor.
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#4
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Not worth the extra $120 and disassembling the entire inside door panel (like 2 to 3 hours work for that alone)
![]() Got it all completed this afternoon, in a little less than 2 hours with a bunch of diddle daddling.... 1 - Used a 2x4 (which fit perfectly in the top center hole) to support the window (seen in the shoebox photos), the motor bolted back in without any real issue But I did have to remove the door panel 3 more times to adjust wiring and even fix broken wires on my relays (Did the Relay mod last year to hopefully avoid the motor replacement)2 - Aligning the motor was actually simple using a small screw driver to support it through the top hole for alignment, and tightening the bottom bolts first. 3 - A Finger Rachet also helps for easy tightening of the nuts on the backside. 4 - Loctite and nylon lock nuts to ensure it stays in place. My old motor was so bad it would stop in 1 second even out of the car with nothing attached to the motor at all. All in all not a bad job at all, if really motivated it could be done in 30 to 45 minutes.
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1996 Z-28: Bolt-Ons, Harwood Cowl Hood, 18" Black Z06s 2005 Subaru Legacy GT - Stage 2 - My DD 2012 Audi S4 - The Wifee's Ride (Wait - the wife drives the fastest of the stable? )
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#5
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I've done this numerous times. well worth drilling those 3 holes in the fiberglass. did it the hard way the first time learned this method and have used it ever since. The only issue of concern is making sure the regulator is chocked up so the window won't fall after drilling out the old motor, as well as making sure the new motor gears line up where you need them. If you are off by even one tooth the window either wont go up tight or it will be a little too tight and the door will flex a bit.
and when the new motor dies (yes when not if) it makes it that much easier to replace since you won't need to drill anything.
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![]() 99' T/A A4 i got parts!!! Tuned by GOD @ Slowhawk Performance. 325rwhp 333rwtq "Fifty years from now, when you're looking back at your life, don't you want to be able to say you had the guts to get in the car?" Quote:
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#6
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yea i did both sides in about an hour with the drill method.
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2002 SLP SS - Forged LME 408ci Stroker PRC Stage 3 heads, Slowhawk Cam Fast 90, NW 90, Kooks,TSP true duals Moser 9" Wavetrac 3.55's, Full suspension D1SC Procharger, Meth Injection, Return style fuel system, Slowhawk Tuned 751rwhp/699rwtq on 13lbs... more to come! 2006 Trailblazer SS - 22" Replicas, Dropped, Magnaflow, Tint, BIG System |
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