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  #31  
Old 03-17-2010, 01:52 PM
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ive seen them not go bad but blow the hose off the top of them. might be a good place to start.
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:37 PM
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i had the tube split on me and it would slowly loos pressure as it flexed out
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:21 PM
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Tested the fuel pressure, checked ok.

Losing my mind here. Got a code 42 again, along with a 16 again.
Also got codes for map sensor and O2 volts but I'm pretty sure those are from the way it was running before it stalled.
From what I'm reading it's pointing towards a bad ground or a bad pcm. Guess next step is check my grounds.
I don't know. Anyone want to have a z28 bonfire?
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:58 AM
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dont do that Ill give you 200 bucks for it that includes the stuff you just got of pizza LOL
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  #35  
Old 03-18-2010, 02:08 AM
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you have to be 100% sure the grounds at the coil/module are 100% GOOD!!!!! a greasy oily connection causes all kinds of shit. make sure one of them hasnt come out of the connector and is hanging down. also the small braided ground should be hooked up too. it grounds the motor mounts at the K-member and helps ground the body. Also the ground near the battery on that single post decides to get corroded at times. those are the only grounds that matter for the PCM to function properly. if they all look clean and are tight ohm them out at the PCM red and blue connectors. if you need i can get you a pinnout for your car.
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  #36  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:35 PM
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Ok, took every ground off today and scraped them all clean.
Car fired right up and ran mint. Hopped in, drove 3/4 mile up the road to dunks, sat in drive through for a few minutes, got our coffees, pulled out of lot, coughed and died again. Grrrrrr....

Couldn't get it to restart so I pushed it home, mostly down hill thank god. Scanned it again, code 42. Ign control module. Looked up the factory flow chart, have good ground, have a 2 volt reference pulse on pin b. Wiring checks good.
So, I swap out new module for old one cause now I'm grasping at straws. Car fires right up, runs mint.
For about 5-10 minutes. Then coughs dies and won't fire again. Mudule seems to be getting hot. But why? Grounds are good, voltage signals good, I'm freakin lost...

I'm beyond frustrated here, slammed the hood shut and I'm getting ready for work. Tomorrows another day. Course now I have no idea what to look for...
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:38 PM
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Ok, todays update:
Yesterdeay after I went to work she went down to the garage and started poking around. On a whim she swapped out the accell coil for our old stock one. Car fired right up. Drove around and idled in the lot for over an hour no issues.
Today she ran around all afternoon and blew through almost a whole tank of gas. So, seems the accell coil was overheating the stock icm?
So far so good, we'll see how it handles the dunks drive through when we go to work tonight lol.
Who woulda thought....
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  #38  
Old 03-19-2010, 09:03 PM
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ILuvPizzaTimes10 ILuvPizzaTimes10 is offline
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dont tell me you ran that coil for a long time with out the box hooked up? its Meant to run on the stock setup BUT only as a bypass test to see if the ignition box is bad. sorry i didnt tell you that. that coil needs the box to function properly. and wen you swapped the coil did you also swap modules along with it? just trying to get a handle on what EXACTLY you did.
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  #39  
Old 03-19-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10 View Post
dont tell me you ran that coil for a long time with out the box hooked up? its Meant to run on the stock setup BUT only as a bypass test to see if the ignition box is bad. sorry i didnt tell you that. that coil needs the box to function properly. and wen you swapped the coil did you also swap modules along with it? just trying to get a handle on what EXACTLY you did.
Yeah I never put the box in cause I wanted to make sure I had my other issues straightened out before I went changing more stuff. I figured a coil was a coil lol.

We were both saying all along it was something stupid. Dammit
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