Dont forget theres actual rules stating where the door bars have to go down etc. I dont feel like looking them all up myself.

At 11.99 dont you need a "roll bar" Those are simple, once you get past 6pts I'm all set doing the work. Dont forget the welds "shoulds" have to pass inspection etc.

it states the latest rules that a standard 4 point.(main hoop and 2 rear struts) are not legal. you need the 5th point. the drivers door bar. the door bar Can be swing out. and its doesnt state whether it can be slung/bent or not. So if it doesnt say you cant then you can. it just needs to be in the right location in relation to the drivers shoulder. and John as far as that kit goes All the pieces are pre-beveled wich is why i was really looking into it. and with the mild steel the welder at work will do Just fine. Miller-Matic 250 with a spool gun!!! So thats why i wanted to know if it was really worth it? cuz doing the work myself it will be Simple and Easy for the 5 point. and its good to 10.00!

I would go this route if you have the skills / tools of course!

ohh and No on the S&W. they have the rear struts going threw the speaker holes. Fuck that.

So I went to order this....

1 comp engineering doesn't make this kit anymore.
2. They are charging this price just for the hoop now
3. Extra 350 for the strut kit with plates...

Just an FYI

step 1 remove interior step 2 deliever to halls step 3 paint step 4 put interior back in.

If comp doesn't make it then why does summit offer it and say ship today?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-3121-K

Mike that is a great question... In the process of figuring it out

Ya thats cheap but its thick heavy steel, go chromoly its not much more.............Once my car is all done my buddy could hook you up with the welding. Hes a great welder and i'm sure would give you a great deal.

fuckers going to make me put a cage in my car :( whats the deal with the bolt in cage yay or nay