Help Please lol
 

ok so as most of you know my car did worse on the dyno this year compared to the two previous years last year was 182/267...my best this year was 176/245. what i changed between the two was TB, muffler, and the chip. i dont have the chip in the car no and i did get a couple horse and torque back but still no where near where it was before. The TPS was set too low because i never checked when i put it on the new TB but we fixed that tonight. I guess i just want input on anything else i should check for?

I was hoping that all this stuff would get me to my goal of 200/280 but not yet i guess lol

Thanks in advance for any help!!

only thing i came up with was the tps voltage other then that only thing i can think of would be a vac leak but I don't think you had that problem. maybe check timing or fp see how that is doing. also check plugs see what they look like.

buy a new car! :D ....just kidding...i love you... dont beat me... lol

^hey if your payin i will..if not then can it lol

and i think im going to pull some timing out of it see it that helps, i kinda dont think its a fp problem but it is an easy check so i will look into that, same with the plugs..they have about 2k miles on them but i can pull a few out and check em out.

pizza was thinking i should check IAT and see if that is reading correctly

jay switched from a edlebrock muffler to a magnaflow and lost like 5 hp, might have lost a bit there when you switch to a hooker?

sorry adam but i gained 10rwhp over a Blowmaster wen i went to the hooker. not his issue. if all of his sensors are withing range. its either A bad tune. B past he efficiency of the MAF. or C he needs a cam cuz there isnt any free HP left in thet head cam combo. thats my 2 cents.

if C. is the case then i have a set of 305 vortec heads that i have held onto incase i ever wanted to do a cam but idk if i want to got that far with the car lol

i wouldnt go that far without first upgrading the ECU

and i went from edelbrock to hooker...i had to the edelbrock was at the end of its life

how far off was the tps?

I wouldnt do a cam in that car simply because its so clean, keep it original and if you want to upgrade the valvetrain go with some ER rockers IMO. something that can easily be reversed and also no making the car any less streetable while picking up another 15 to 20 hp. I know with the v6s we would get about peal 20hp with ER rockers atw

Im going to chime in here and I hope I dont come across like an ass. First off, I have been there and done that with these cars for over 10 years and the biggest thing I have learned is that all the bolt on parts are a waste of money and in the long run, they just make your engine run worse then the factory intended it too. The biggest culprit is the POS Eproms on the market. It is impossible to order a Eprom for your car and get the calibration correct over the phone or by filling out a tech sheet. I have 3 eproms here in my house that are JUNK and 2 of them are from Fastchip that I paid $350 each for back in the day.

Second, replacing OEM parts like sensors with the junk found at your local parts store is just asking for trouble. You will not catch me dead buying anything for my car in those places. I have learned the hard way that the sensors they sell are no where close to the quality of a new AcDelco part. You may not see a change by just replacing the TPS or even worse the O2 but a little here and a little there makes a huge difference at the end and now the engine is not running at its best because of little issues here and there.

I highly suggest you first get your car running correctly with the stock emprom and stock parts or you willl just be chasing your tail. I have never seen your car and I dont know anything about the mods done so please fill me in so I can offer my help to you. If your car is straight and clean and not far from stock and I would leave it alone and enjoy what you have because they are getting harder and harder to find in nice shape.

Oh and I would NOT mess with your timing at all. Set it to 6 degrees and leave it. What is your fueel pressure set at? I also think your 52MM TB is NOT helping you at all. Trying putting the stock one back in and run the car on the dyno again.

Did you modify your MAF at all? Please say no

there is no "aftermarket junk" on the car for sensors or anything like that. i work at a gm dealership and everything that has gone on the car has come in ac delco "genuine gm" packing (even tho it says made in mexico on right on it lol)
the car runs great on the stock tune...i think that 182/267 at the wheels is a great running 86 305

um fuel pressure is just stock i have not fucked with that at all..so honestly idk exectly what it is? as for the MAF about a month after i bought the car it through a MAF code pulled it out and it had half descreened one side on its own...so i pulled the rest of the sreen off it so it didnt get sucked through the motor and i cleaned it at that point as well and has been that way for about three years now so i dont think thats my problem

i have never touched the fuel pressure so i dont really have any idea what the actual pressure is. and as for the tps i think it was at about .364 or something like that?

thanks for help and advice guys, any other imputs are welcome. ill keep checking things as i can

did you check the WOT voltage?

You are looking for 0.540VDC +/- 0.075VDC on the TPS adjustment with the engine not running. The reading should steadily increase as you manually open the butterflies. If there is any erractic readings then your TPS is bad.

You should have about 4V at WOT. If its just under then you are fine. Nothing under 3.75 V though.

ok right now it is set at about .59x i did not check what it was at WOT i will do that tomorrow and check to see what it does as i open them

you know, i was thinking about your car earlier today while at work and I must say that 182RWHP is not to shabby for a 1985 305 TPI car. Im not sure if you posted it or not but what Eprom are you using?

ditch the chip unless you get it dyno tuned, we had that problem with the GTA except we went from a 305 to a 350 and barely gained any power. Put the original 305 chip back in and it ran like a champ and gained 39HP and over 50ftLbs. IF the sensors weren't way out of whack that is most likely your problem

If I had your car in front of me right now, I would pull the eprom and put the stocker back in. I would also put another unmodified MAF sensor back in.

And here is some food for thought for you. You say you are running headers right? Have you had the ECM scanned to see if the knock sensor is picking up any noise from the headers? I have seen that happen on these cars. If it is picking up a false knock then it will retard the timing a bit. You can say that the headers are not making noise but you cant prove it until the cars ECM is scanned and some realtime recordings are done.

And what made you decide to step up to a 1.6 RR?

He put the stocker back in at the dyno.

get that MAF out of there too though

as for the MAF i was given a couple of MAFs from a tpi vette....they are different part numbers but would they still work? i kinda doubt it which is why they are in my tool box rather then in the car but figured i would ask anyways. and yes the stock tune is in the car now the car did 175/245 with stock tune and 170/239 with the chip i beleive

i have tried twice now to hook a scanner up to the car and both times it failed to communicate with the vehicle or what ever it was and i could not get any data out of it at all tried both at a friends shop and and work with the tech2 and didnt get anywhere idk if i need to use a different kind of scanner or what? so as for knock info all i can honestly say is it has never thrown a code for it...

looking back on it im not sure why i decided to do them? i guess it was because i had to do guide seals and had the rockers of anyways, and was hopping for a hp gain...which i did not get(3 hp and 5ftlb with headers and rr)

The MAF sensors you have from other cars (vette) will NOT work correctly in your car. Those MAF have certain parameters and are calibrated a little differently then the one that came in your car. If I were you, I would look around for a stock virgin MAF. As it stands right now, what is your biggest complaint about the engine? What would you like to see improve on it?

rally feel like he needs to ditch the stock MAF altogether. the factory ECM in that car is a JOKE. he should really get either an Accel DFI or a Holley Commander. and call it a day. even a Mega-Squirt will be a VAST improvement over the ECM.

But to be honest with his AFR Not THAT far off whack and the car not pining or knocking. i was driving it and watched all aspects of the run. the car just wont wake up to the bolt-ons. and after hes beat his head against the wall with all this crap. he will realize A stock cam SUCKS. fucking thing only has ~180 duration. and B stock ecm isnt worth anything other a Stock Car period!

if your serious about getting this car right ben. gimme a call and we will talk about EFI Connections setup for Gen 1 SBC's to run the same LS1 setup i have.

^COMMEEE ONNNNN!!! what do you think im made of money over here??? ahahaha
lets get it back to where it was last year then go from there lol

then take all your "speed" parts off. and get back to within the range of the stock tune. and then leave it alone!

Honestly if I were you I would put the stock chip back in and see if the car re-adjusts to where it was, and if it does just leave it alone. It made great power for a 305. If you really want to do a cam you are getting into big money to install it and get it tuned correctly (somehow), you'd probably be halfway or more towards paying for a swap and making far less power. And you also have to consider how much do you want to tear into a nice clean 3rd gen? Depends on what you really want out of the car, if you just want a fun car to drive it's pretty good as it sits. If you want to chase dyno numbers it's the wrong car.

that computer wont re learn or correct itself. it May while you drive but goes right back to 128/128 after you turn her off. and even then it can only correct so far before your off the map.

ditto to what he said





You are not going to be able to hang with these new cars unless you toss serious money into the car and if your car is as clean as others here have said it is then I suggest not messing with it and just enjoying it for what it is. I have over $12K into my engine and I still have a hard time hanging with some C6 vettes and my whole intention was to put a spanking on them. Its money I will never get back and had I just saved all my money and then make a decision with it, I would have just bought a used C5 vetter and had a lot better platform to work with.

Just make your car as clean as you can and enjoy it. It starts up and rides fine everyday and thats a lot more then you can ask for from the majority of the other 3rd gens on the road. These cars are past their prime for hopping up with bolt ons.

You want to go fast then buy a cheap LS1 Fbody and go to town. One day to you look back and thank yourself for not tearing up a perfectly good Iroc.

i dont have any desire to get the car to run with an ls1 or even a lt1 for that matter.. i just *assumed* that if i did a couple bolt ons it would pick up a little and get to the 200 mark..which i felt was a pretty reasonable goal and maybe be able to keep up with a civic lol but if its not gunna happen with out going all out then im just SOL hahaha start savin to build the s10 instead

Save your money man. Enjoy that car for what it is. Go through the car and bring it back to what it used to be when it was new. You will be surprised how many people will look at your car over a new one if it is in nice clean condition. Your car is 25 years old. Its practically a relic on the road these days.

just enjoy the car its clean as hell it puts down good numbers and its not worth putting insane money into a freaking 305 with you might as well swap when your chasing high numbers. Just enjoy that car IMO no reason to go crazy with mods that will be just squeezing power out. If you want dyno numbers get an ls juan or an old carbed 350 or big block IMO for that

Put a blower on it or a snail oh yeah lol!

yea its hard for me cuz i see my car but i compare my car to my dads car which is a 86 iroc that he bought new back in 86 and its only got 44,23x miles on it so to me thats a clean car and mine is no where near his hahaha and his will be mine some day adn i dont have any intentions of selling mine so how many "clean 86 irocs" do i need? lol

as for those of you that havnt seen the car...this is a vid i made when i first bought it..my dads car is in it too...some of the imperfections i have fixed since then

Awesome song!! And DAMN his is clean!!!! if you really want to do a build I would say tear the computer out and do a carbed 350 and either do h/c in single plane intake, maybe stroker and just build it up over a long period of time. hey maybe pull a 350 out of a junkyard and just start building it then when the time comes do the swap. idk just my two cents

If you tear into that car I am going to beat you with a driveshaft. Please Please please dont do it. Buy a V6 3rd gen and put an LS series engine in it. Years from now your priorities will change and this car will not be your number one thing. The tons of money you sink into it now will never be returned to you. Trust me, I went through this with my car. If I could go back and do it again... I wouldnt.

Brad's a pussy get a sawzall! woot woot!

no i agree their one original once. the car is areally nice driver and looks great. enjoy it for what it is. for the money i spent on my 97 ss i could have bought a nice ls but i knew i wasn't going the speed route. it sounds like over all your happy with the car and 200 hp dosent sound impossible but i would enjoy the car, if u get to 200hp good, if not i wouldn't beat yourself up over it. if u really wanna go fast later, sell the car get another. and if u do sell the car youll prob bring more $$$ leaving it stock

Id rather chop up a 4th gen SS then a 305 Iroc :sFun_rofl: