yum!!!
 

smoked a pretty good brisket today and David and I put a hurtin on it lol.

Good stuff Dawg!!!

Thanks for the carb adjustment!!!

Thanks for sharing!

Stuffed Pork Loin in the Smoker here ATM:sCh_eleguitarist:

Will be chowing ~6 or so:party2:

oh and smoked a salmon fillet too!

NP just wish ya had the torque converter issue taken care of so you wont be stalling at all the stops !
with the 4:11 rear and the stout cam you should be running at least a 3000-3500 stall converter.

OK Dawg, When I call TCI I should tell them:

Stout cam
vacuum idling in neutral is 12 in
vacuum idling in drive is 5 in
carb is a 750 double pumper
TH400 trans
4.11 rear end
current stall converter is 2500 rpm

sometimes it stalls out when I am at a light and what is the recommended stall converter?

Anything else I should tell TCI?

You shouldn't tell TCI anything. Unless their stuff for old school cars is different, I know their converters for 4th gen cars are junk. But maybe their SBC converters are better, I'm not sure.

A lot of old school guys use TCI stuff, but I think a lot of cars and even newer ones have TH400's. What do you recommend????

Well like I said what I know about converters pertains to 4th gens but the quality brands are Yank, Vigilante and Circle D. I remember a discussion here once about converters and specifically TCI converters, and I think someone made the point that their SBC stuff is different.

Found the thread I was referring to:

http://www.northeastf-bodyassn.com/s...ead.php?t=2234

Thanks for the link!!! Looks like there were quite a few recommendations for the Yank converter. Will ask them for a stall speed recommendation and quote tomorrow.

you should have your cam specs ready. a "Stout" cam mean Nothing to a converter guy. he really needs to know your low speed stall needs and Wot and its all based on power curve and THAT has everything to do with the cam. so i recommend you get the cam card ready.

Crud. No cam card and no cam info. Take it apart and get the cam info first?

ehh i suppose you can go with out. it will be close enough. yank does a Really good job of getting you the right converter if given all the info. and will be damn close if not. give em a call see what they say.

One more question. I have the dyno chart from J&M (for what it's worth :().
Would this help?

If j &m did any work that is the problem lol talk to them on the phone they should be able to get you something conservative that should work

you're probably right. J&M dyno sheet = toilet paper

Will call Yank tomorrow.

Not to threadjack (even though it's a thread about brisket LOL) but Bayer started a thread on LS1Tech about his experience with J&M, you should see all the horror stories that came out of the woodwork

have the link handy?

I saw a couple of his postings, but I have my own J&M stories from before I joined NEFBA. He had a couple shout box items on J&M and I sent him a link on a few other horror stories (might have been on ls1tech) but I don't think he was ready to hear it and his car had already been there for at least a week.

Edit: Just did a google search to find my old link and just found Bayer's new post here and he sounds real mad:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/easter...sports-ct.html

Edit 2: older J&M post: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/easter...-corvette.html

sweet thanks, My luck with searching tonight has been no good lol

ZFrie: I made a couple edits. I found 1 more link and clarified that Bayers car had already been at J&M for a while before I used the shoutbox to send him the ls1tech link.

Sweet check it out, i can't believe how much bad people have to say about a shop and they aren't closed down yet.

I heard J&M was good but that goes to show ya that word of mouth isnt all its cracked up to be.
David No matter who you go with for a converter you need a higher stall period!
knowin cam specs is a plus but not nessesary.
car weight-rear ratio-trans type should be good.
also you do have a BIG cam in there and idle isnt what one would call smooth lol.
I never Had issues with TCI for TH350-400 trannys.
And you know first hand I beat the crap outta my drivetrain lol.
I did have issues with HUGHES and B&M converters though.
another good MFG. is COAN http://www.coanracing.com/Catalog.asp?CatClass=02CO
the main point is to get a matched torque converter for your drivetrain setup.
cuz it sucks right now lol.
I used to have same issue with a bit higher than stock converter and had to set tranny in nuetral at the lights or stand on the brake pedal (non power drums lol)until car died.
you might have a problem selecting a converter from Yank cuz they dont make converters for TH400 .
only powerglide.

Thanks Dawg! I filled out the Coan online form and will post when they write back.

ya might have to call them cuz some sites dont look at the forms until end of week.

Just got a call from Art at Coan. He said that without the cam info, he could only make a guess and would lean his guess to the conservative side. He recommended the COA-20316. Link is here, but not much info: http://www.coanracing.com/Catalog.asp?ProductDetail=959

he said it is a 10" 3,000 rpm stall.

He also said that to make a real recommendation, he needs the cam info.

yeah ya might have to track down the builder or take a shot at the converter he suggested.
anything is better than whats in there now.
just my opinion but I would go just a bit more on the stall say 3300.

YANK!!!! CALL YANK! Just saying!

OK, will give them a call tomorrow.

I filled out their on-line form and they wrote back already.

They asked: "what's the max RWHP and max shift rpm set at?"

The first part, if I go by J&M is 300 rwhp.

The second part, I don't know. Is that typically done on a dyno or a track?

first part if you are not planning on more mods then i would say a max of 450 just to be safe.

second what rpm does your car shift at wot. or look at your graph around what rpm does your power fall off. I havn't seen the graph but I would say 5500 would be max on a sbc but I dunno what your cam or setup is.

OK, Thanks! Below is what J&M said was their first dyno before making carb changes. They never gave me a dyno sheet after the changes but said the max went to 350 rwhp. Is the recommendation for 5500 still OK?

I don't know if I believe anything J&M ever said, but unfortunately it's the only thing I have to go by.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../dynosheet.jpg

350 but no graph oh boy that place is pure shit but ok i would probably shift that car at 5500 ish but might wanna tell them 5500-5800 but no more then 6 at most. Where does it shift at wot?

I told them 3-4 times that I wanted to be there when they dyno'd it but they never, ever let me know. I believe they do that to everyone. Then they verbally give me some dyno numbers. Never going back.

Anyway, Thanks for the recommendations! I don't know where it shifts at WOT.

Lol floor that thing once in awhile!

HA HA!!! I know. I know. Dawg keeps busting my balls for driving like an old lady.

Well actually who know's what j and m did lol you not flooring it might be saving your motor!

True enough!

Dave at Yank wrote back: "I would recommend one of my 2800 stall 9.5in billet converters they run 795.00 plus shipping."

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol 9.5 inch? at only 2800?
you already got a 2500 stall in there and it pulls at idle to the point of stalling?
youll need more than that as far as stall is concerned.
and billet really isnt what you need (waste of money IMO).
just with the 4:11 rear 3000 minmum.
I thought you were gonna do a cam change later on instead so the little woman can enjoy the car????
but IMO its cheaper to do a converter change.
talk to your local (trustworthy)mechanic and have him take it for a drive and see what he thinks????
I should have let ya take my car for a spin to see what the properly selected converter feels like.