Ok, so the z took a dump...
 

Well, the 95 z took a dump on me today. Pulled into a parking spot at kfc and watched it idle loopy for 20 seconds, then stall.
And, of course, it wouldn't start again. Went inside, let the family eat (I was in no mood lol) came back out and nothing.
On a whim, she cycled the key a few times and it fired up, for about 10 seconds, then it died again.
So, I gave up, begged a ride for the four of us from auburn to athol from mom, borrowed the scan tool and the tow truck from my landlord, and headed back.
Got back, tried for the hell of it, and it fired right up, for about 30 seconds lol.
Hooked up the scan tool, code 16, low resolution signal.
So, I'm assuming opti? Is the low resolution the one I can just change the cap/rotor or am I biting it and replacing the whole unit. Was told it was a fairly new accel opti when I got the car too....
Or, am I way off, any help is appreciated. I cant deal with dailying the jeep anymore, especially now that the weather is getting better lol!!!!

dont know but that sucks man good luck

Low res can also be caused by a bad ignition module. its the black box mounted above the coil. if you want to try it for the hell of it i have a BRAND NEW accel super coil and a fairly new GM module on a bracket you can try. let me know and you can come get it any night you want. id try that first. and if you get the same result. Opti theres nothing else. And i have a like new MSD opti with 1995 timing cover for sale too if youd like to get it ill sell it for less then a new gm opti costs.

and on a side note if its the Accel opti its like the 3rd one ive seen fail. there not lasting like the gm or MSD pieces. GOOD LUCK!

How often are modules intermittent? If the car sits for a few hours it'll fire, but only run for 20-30 seconds then won't start again for hours.
Every module I've seen just goes and that's it. Just curious.
And I'm hitting my 5 night stretch at work so I think I'm just going to say f it and order up a cheap eBay opti for now.
If it wasn't for needing to get her subie done I'd spend the money and do what you're doing with the lsx ecu and eliminate the opti entirely. But, with her car I don't have the extra funds right now so hopefully the eBay one will at least get me through the season.
Only person I saw mention one on ltxtech said it's worked great :)

good luck with it matt!

if there is a bad bridge in the coil i know that that can happen

ive seen modules do all sorts of wierd shit. i have NEVER seen an opti do what your talking about. and ive blown up 5 of them. they all do the same thing. idle smooth and seem fine then under a load misfire like a bastard and stall after. But they always start right up. id say goto advance and get a module plug it in along with a coil.

how much for this "ebay" opti?

$85 with free shipping. Brand new in box lol.

Course now you have me second guessing the opti and thinking I may try the module first.
Although the first advanced I called told me that my car doesn't have a module. Only an opti and a coil lol. I hung up on him real quick, wasn't worth the argument. If only you were closer I'd take you up on your offer. Another store close to me has a module, $70. Cheaper and easier to try that first I guess. Probably do the coil too while I'm at it.

yeah man thats what i would try first. ive seen coils and modules pull a crank no start FAR more often then an Opti. i could always ship it to you. and you ship it back or if it works and you want the whole Accel Digital CD box with limiter ill sell it to you cheap.

yea right he'll jus wait for the money and never ship anything to you hahaha just kiddin pizza

Hmm, definitely have my interest.
If I paypal the cash to ship will you do it next day?
Let me know, and, how much for the coil/module if it works and define "cheap" for the box lol.
I'm open but want it up and running asap. The jeep is killing me :p

yeah ill get a box together and next day it PM me your addy. and after it shipps from work ill just give you a price.

if it works and you want the box http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-49324/?rtype=10 thats what you'll get for umm hows 125 sound? ive never had ONE issue with it!!! and thats 125 for coil module coil bracket and ignition box with plug and play harness. lemme know

Ok, how do I say no to that. You drive a had bargain lol.

Box it up and I'll pm you my addy tonight when I get home from work. (No time now, on my phone lol)

Can you get it out tomorrow?

yeah man no problem it will be shipped tomorrow for you ASAP! should be out on the second UPS truck. we have 2 a day come to pick shit up. ill send it out red it might be a little pricey.

Ok, you sir, have a pm :)

Update, mike is the man. He got the parts shipped out and in my hand this morning.
Unfortunately, my car is an asshole and it didn't fix it lol.
Onto a full diagnostic of the opti before I tear it all apart.
It's weird cause I was testing fuses and I don't have any power to the ecu fuse in the dash. Would a bad opti signal cause that?

no power key on or off? there is also a 10 amp ignition fuse under the hood. BUJT you sed it was firing and then dying???

No power key on or off. All the fuses under the hood are good.

Here's where I'm at. Put in the new coil and module. All it does now is crank. Hasn't fired at all. So, checked the wires to the coil, single wire plug has constant key on power. Both wires in the two wire plug are always dead no matter what, key on, off, or cranking.
So, I check all the fuses. They are all good except fuse for ecu in box has no power. Hmm, vats I'm thinking? Measured the key, got a resistor, and bypased the vats. Still nothing.
So, now I'm done guessing and it's time to start a full on diagnostic. I know coil and module are good. Also getting fuel. Opti has good power and ground. Gonna grab a multimeter tomorrow and check reference voltage from the ecu to opti and grab a noid light to see if the injectors are pulsing.

I dunno, I'm about to start pulling my hair out lol. I miss my toy already. Not dealing with another summer of slow jeep hell ;)

did you check all your fusing under your hood as well? seems wierd having no power at one of the ecu fuses. also check that fuckin POS distribution block behind the battery make sure all your wires and connections there are good.

Yup all the fuses under the hood are good. Double checked the distribution block too.
Tomorrow I'm gonna grab a multi meter and a noid light and do a full on diagnostic. Wish me luck :)

Update, had the chance today to work on the car, and yup, bad opti!

Special thanks to mike for the hookup on a lightly used msd opti. Got it in, problem solved. Back to laying 200ft posi shots smoother than ever lol.

Mike, you are the man, thank you very much again!

KICK ASSS!!!!!!! Glad to hear it all worked out for yah!!!!!!

Or not WTF!!!
Just tried taking it to work after running around some this afternoon and it's stalling again. Only restarts after a minute or two and only foot to the floor. Idles really rough and you can only get a quarter mile or so before it stalls again. DAMMIT!!!

I'm ready to pull my hair out here. Now what?!?

Or not WTF!!!
Just tried taking it to work after running around some this afternoon and it's stalling again. Only restarts after a minute or two and only foot to the floor. Idles really rough and you can only get a quarter mile or so before it stalls again. DAMMIT!!!

I'm ready to pull my hair out here. Now what?!?

have you checked fuel pressure threw all of this? thats shitty!!!

+1 on the fuel pressure, or could it be the coil getting hot? On shoebox there's a writeup for a mod to move the coil about 1/4" off the head to keep it from getting hot and cauing misfires. But check fuel pressure first, should be like 45 PSI key on engine off after priming, and around 40 running.

43.5 running or not is what an LT1 needs to run properly.

and the coil thing only applys to an old ass beat up coil. And it wasnt really coil as much as the module would heat up and open up on the out put side.

he has a Brand New module and Coil on there. not the problem. new opti rule that out. its either fuel or an ECM ground/power lead.

Yeah, gonna check fuel pressure tomorrow, along with everything else all of her random internet searches turn up. I'm running out of ideas and am starting to get really frustrated.
Fuel pressure should be good I hope, it's a brand new walboro 255 in there :p

Could be the pump, I've seen a lot of walbro pumps going bad.

ive seen them not go bad but blow the hose off the top of them. might be a good place to start.

i had the tube split on me and it would slowly loos pressure as it flexed out

Tested the fuel pressure, checked ok.

Losing my mind here. Got a code 42 again, along with a 16 again.
Also got codes for map sensor and O2 volts but I'm pretty sure those are from the way it was running before it stalled.
From what I'm reading it's pointing towards a bad ground or a bad pcm. Guess next step is check my grounds.
I don't know. Anyone want to have a z28 bonfire?

dont do that Ill give you 200 bucks for it that includes the stuff you just got of pizza LOL

you have to be 100% sure the grounds at the coil/module are 100% GOOD!!!!! a greasy oily connection causes all kinds of shit. make sure one of them hasnt come out of the connector and is hanging down. also the small braided ground should be hooked up too. it grounds the motor mounts at the K-member and helps ground the body. Also the ground near the battery on that single post decides to get corroded at times. those are the only grounds that matter for the PCM to function properly. if they all look clean and are tight ohm them out at the PCM red and blue connectors. if you need i can get you a pinnout for your car.

Ok, took every ground off today and scraped them all clean.
Car fired right up and ran mint. Hopped in, drove 3/4 mile up the road to dunks, sat in drive through for a few minutes, got our coffees, pulled out of lot, coughed and died again. Grrrrrr....

Couldn't get it to restart so I pushed it home, mostly down hill thank god. Scanned it again, code 42. Ign control module. Looked up the factory flow chart, have good ground, have a 2 volt reference pulse on pin b. Wiring checks good.
So, I swap out new module for old one cause now I'm grasping at straws. Car fires right up, runs mint.
For about 5-10 minutes. Then coughs dies and won't fire again. Mudule seems to be getting hot. But why? Grounds are good, voltage signals good, I'm freakin lost...

I'm beyond frustrated here, slammed the hood shut and I'm getting ready for work. Tomorrows another day. Course now I have no idea what to look for...

Ok, todays update:
Yesterdeay after I went to work she went down to the garage and started poking around. On a whim she swapped out the accell coil for our old stock one. Car fired right up. Drove around and idled in the lot for over an hour no issues.
Today she ran around all afternoon and blew through almost a whole tank of gas. So, seems the accell coil was overheating the stock icm?
So far so good, we'll see how it handles the dunks drive through when we go to work tonight lol.
Who woulda thought....

dont tell me you ran that coil for a long time with out the box hooked up? its Meant to run on the stock setup BUT only as a bypass test to see if the ignition box is bad. sorry i didnt tell you that. that coil needs the box to function properly. and wen you swapped the coil did you also swap modules along with it? just trying to get a handle on what EXACTLY you did.

Yeah I never put the box in cause I wanted to make sure I had my other issues straightened out before I went changing more stuff. I figured a coil was a coil lol.

We were both saying all along it was something stupid. Dammit :)