Fouling o2s
 

Ok, this is the second drivers side O2 that has fouled. I still have the stock o2 on the pass side. Any one have ideas on why it might be fouling? I got a GM o2 before, should I try an auto zone version?

Sucks when your driving and your o2 dies on you. At first i was like wtf then after some trouble shooting driving it was doing exactly what it did last time the o2 died. Very bad stumble till like 1800~+ rpms then it smoothed back out. Had to keep it in third to keep it from shaking its self apart the stumble was so bad. :Dumb:

Are they just going junk(no reading) or are you throwing a code for them? Most the time when people have a o2 code, its NOT the sensor, its something else causing the sensor to act funny.

Throwing a code, scanned it with w/e tunercats recommends as a scan software. First time it was a dead o2(I think they were the ones that came with the car lol.) Wanna say drivers side was reading 42(mv?) and the pass was reading like 850, id have to go look at the logs again to double check exact #s. That was the only code it was showing. Think it might be a bad connection at one of the connectors and or a burnt wire somehow?

Also when I scanned it, I just wanted to start the car and see what the pcm was reading for a code/ #s. Not sure if I shoulda let it go into closed loop or not.

When was the last time u did plugs and wires? Raw fuel can make them read totally lean and throw a code. Could be alot of things really.

Last year when I first got the car, car runs fine when it throws the code and goes into open loop. And its only the drivers side o2 that's throwing a code, the pass side is working correctly it would seem. Should I try pulling plugs and see how they look? Any thing else I could check?

Definaly worth looking at plugs they tell a tale so to speak but good ?

Alright, I might try pulling them tomorrow, ill post pics of them and see what you all think. What should I be looking for on the plugs? The drivers bank should look much different from the passenger side correct?

If i do try and replace should I just get an auto zone one and see if thats the issue? I've herd a bunch of bad about bosch o2s But its like half the price of the dealer part. Would data logs be helpful to anyone?

Didnt end up pulling plugs, after looking at the o2 its some how getting oil on it. The wires were damp with oil. So I think the oil was shorting something out...? Cleaned the connectors and routed the wires differently. The oil has me stumped tho, I already fixed the intake leak a while ago and still dry back there. I think its my low oil sensor(one in the side of the oil pan and its def leaking) but what I don't get is how would the oil be traveling UP the wires cause both the loom and wires up by the oil pressure sending unit are dry. I'm gonna datalog it again in a bit and see if the o2s still reading WAY low.

Oil could ve valves seals but more then likely rings are having blow by check your tb see if oil is coming up through it also