Lifters - North East F-Body Association

ArcticSS · #1 05-05-2010, 01:56 PM

Thought i had a leaky exhaust and header ticking noise from not being tightened again after the breaking in. Turns out i did but the noise did not go away. The mechanic said its prob a lazy lifter coming from the drivers side. Question: Do the heads have to come off when doing lifters in these cars. Havent got a 100% diagnostic test to confirm but i can hear it better since the exhaust was fixed. Maybe thats why i got it pretty cheap. I got no fucking luck buying cars.

ILuvPizzaTimes10 · #2 05-05-2010, 02:32 PM

the LS car your talking about right? the one you just picked up? you know there is a lemon law. if you cant do it yourself it can be VERY pricy. the heads do have to come off.

ArcticSS · #3 05-05-2010, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILuvPizzaTimes10

the LS car your talking about right? the one you just picked up? you know there is a lemon law. if you cant do it yourself it can be VERY pricy. the heads do have to come off.

Yea it's the LS i just picked up. Lemon law probably wouldnt apply since i bought it as is as seen from a private seller and i also drove an hour and a half into conn. to pick it up. No i prob wont be able to do it myself. I have no space available and probably not all the tools to do it probably. I figured the heads have to come off, just wasnt sure. It's not that bad yet, but it ticks and it echoes down through the bottom of the engine and it's just very annoying. Is there maybe some kind of oil additive i can use the help free a stick or lazy lifter just for now maybe to quiet it down.

I am selling my 94z today so i have a little money coming in today.

c4boom · #4 05-05-2010, 03:47 PM

do an oil change with a synthetic oil and at the same time get some gunk engine flush FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WITH THAT SHIT IN THERE. or you can add some ATF to the oil. What you need is some thing that will get all the shit out of the lifter ports allot of times.

ArcticSS · #5 05-06-2010, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c4boom

do an oil change with a synthetic oil and at the same time get some gunk engine flush FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR WITH THAT SHIT IN THERE. or you can add some ATF to the oil. What you need is some thing that will get all the shit out of the lifter ports allot of times.

The guy i bought it from always runs mobil 5w-30. I havent changed the oil yet but i will this weekend. Should i go with a heavier synthetic and do maybe 10w-30. Ive never done seafoam will that work?. Ill add some atf when i change it later this week.

BrokenFeather78 · #6 05-06-2010, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArcticSS

The guy i bought it from always runs mobil 5w-30. I havent changed the oil yet but i will this weekend. Should i go with a heavier synthetic and do maybe 10w-30. Ive never done seafoam will that work?. Ill add some atf when i change it later this week.

Plan on a quick swap if you're using atf. It has a good chance of clearing up your problem. The best way to do it is after the add drive for a couple of hours. Then rechange your oil while it the atf batch is still hot. If you let it cool before the change the conditioners will release some of the crap you just stripped and will cake in your pan. I have done it a couple times with success.

ArcticSS · #7 05-06-2010, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrokenFeather78

Plan on a quick swap if you're using atf. It has a good chance of clearing up your problem. The best way to do it is after the add drive for a couple of hours. Then rechange your oil while it the atf batch is still hot. If you let it cool before the change the conditioners will release some of the crap you just stripped and will cake in your pan. I have done it a couple times with success.

I will try that this weekend. Should i just stick with the mobil 5w-30 or go to 10w?

BrokenFeather78 · #8 05-06-2010, 01:47 AM

5w and 10w isn't too much of a difference during normal summer driving. I use 10w. The snailblazer gets 5w as a winter driver. But it may be going away for a 2500HD.

Batman · #9 05-06-2010, 11:55 AM

ATF is probably your best shot to free it up but the problem normally is the retainer gets small scratches in it from the dirt and that is what holds the lifter for a second. Worth a shot though. If you do need to change them in can be done in a day but gets pricey for the gaskets and you can't re-use alot of the bolts.

ArcticSS · #10 05-06-2010, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman

ATF is probably your best shot to free it up but the problem normally is the retainer gets small scratches in it from the dirt and that is what holds the lifter for a second. Worth a shot though. If you do need to change them in can be done in a day but gets pricey for the gaskets and you can't re-use alot of the bolts.

Yea and it only sounds like its coming from the drivers side. If it does have to come at least im getting a new head gasket. Btw how much are they anyway, i have no idea what parts i would need. Right now its only mildly ticking. But my 94z i just sold yesterday has been ticking since the first time i got i bought it 3 years ago. I say the dude got a very good deal since he only paid 2600 for it and he got my c6 vette wheels since i had no other rims for the car.