Lifters

[Batman]

If you go into the oil pump to do the O-ring get a ported pump and an LS2 timing chain while you are in there, money in the bank for the future. But if your oil pressure isn't dropping I'll tell you now it isn't the pump or O-ring. Navy's issue was different as his Oil pressure was getting down between 15 and 20 PSI at idle. If you are sitting at 35-40 PSI at idle the oil pump is fine. You can't have a lifter knocking from starvation if the car has good oil pressure.

[Bayer-Z28]

^ If it JUST happens to be the lifters, the LS7 lifters are the direct LS1 replacements and are off the shelf Comp Cams units. If the oil pressure is good, that is a valid point. My buddy's oil pressure was good, but dropped every once in a while. The o-ring wasn't pinched, just wasn't seated good enough in the pump.

IMO, I'd rather do the oil pump first. Easier than taking the heads off.

The O-ring problem we had wasn't starvation, it was aeration.

[c4boom]

ya that or just get a the caddy racing lifters

[ArcticSS]

Well it looks like a i cant change my oil today because of the shit storm outside and i gotta work all day mothers day.

[ArcticSS]

Originally Posted by irockidz28

airport road? as in Warwick?

Yeah in warwick. Dude lives in bayside so if you see a green 4th gen with c6 wheels please give him the finger.

[ILuvPizzaTimes10]

id start with looking at pump. and then go from there. 40 by the stock gauge my even be lower then you think. i dunno ive never seen a lifter go bad from nothing. yah know. something HAD to have casued it.

[smokinss]

Yeah it could be the pump.

But as far as taking the heads off. I just went through that whole ordeal because I thought I had a bad lifter or worse. I stripped down the whole topend and bought new GM MLS head gaskets and new GM bolts. It wasnt that bad of a job, I did it all myself with hand tools none the less. As long as you follow the correct tq patterns for the heads and rockers you should be just fine.

This is with the passenger side head off. I did do the other side too.

[Bayer-Z28]

^ Yeah, it's doable with basic tools. We did my buddy's MS4 h/c swap with one of those black plastic case tool kits. We went thru a couple things, and had to rent/borrow some stuff, but it worked out great. I got the Cometic head gaskets. I didn't need em, but I actually like the stock MLS gaskets.

People bitch about working on these cars "Woah! HTF do you get in there!? I can't see the back of the engine!" when in reality, once you get the intake out of there and avoid slicing the top of your hands, it's really not that bad. But I did have an issue on my buddy's car with the second head bolt from the front on the bottom/driver's side was a real pain on my buddy's car with his welded exhaust. And even THAT wasn't that bad. Depends on your abilities, though. I've been wrenching since I can remember.

HE bled worse than I did though.. He caught his hand GOOD on the raw edge of the rocker area on his new heads.

This was the head bolt.. Not SPECIFICALLY, but I can't find a pic of the driver's side during the swap.. This pic is my car, tho. That head bolt was a pain on mine too, come to think of it. Just in a bad spot. Got the header flange in the way and a really tight squeeze with the 15mm socket and 1/2" drive and all.

[Batman]

Yupp,once the coils and intake are gone it is a piece of cake to work on these engines. That and getting the crank pulley off, have fun with that

[Bayer-Z28]

^ A good puller helps with that.. I've got an EXTRA strong 2 jaw puller that seems to work pretty good.

I can't find the brand or even a pic of mine, but I'm pretty sure I bought it at NAPA. It's REALLY heavy duty! Prolly around 1/4" plate steel hooks and center support. Here, I'll show off my sIk mSPaint SkillllllzzZ!