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  #31  
Old 08-07-2014, 01:13 AM
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Yes. That's weird the lt cars have steel tanks and don't have this style like pizza said. I'm assuming the government has something to do with it because it's so much newer. I would say like 98% sure that's ur problem.
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  #32  
Old 08-07-2014, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98 hoe View Post
Yes. That's weird the lt cars have steel tanks and don't have this style like pizza said. I'm assuming the government has something to do with it because it's so much newer. I would say like 98% sure that's ur problem.
Alright thanks man, now I gotta find out if I can get at the thing haha
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  #33  
Old 08-07-2014, 02:07 AM
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I just did a bit of reading and if this ever happens to any of you guys, look under the hood of your car and follow the fuel lines and youll see a little green cap that looks and functions just like a valve stem for a tire. Use a key or screwdriver to let the pressure out and then you should be able to fill your tank. Temporary fix, but its better than being stranded like what almost happened to me haha.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD
2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....
DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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  #34  
Old 08-07-2014, 11:38 PM
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Alright, I got that part out FINALLY. All I have to say is what a F$CKING C*NT it is to get at that little bastard! I really don't recommend anybody do this with the tank still up there..... its literally a C hair away from impossible. I removed the tank heat shield, had to take the three bolts that hold the panhard bar to the unibody out, lowered that out of the way, then removed the two bolts for the tank straps, then I was able to lower the front of the tank down enough to get a hand up there and feel around, still VERY tight though. Then theres a rotor spring band clamp like you see on cooling hoses clamping the hose to the unit..... good luck getting pliers on that when you cant see and can only get one hand up there at a time....that's all I have to say about that haha. The worst part is actually removing the solenoid though. But anyways there it is, hopefully the new one goes back in much easier.


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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD
2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....
DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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  #35  
Old 08-08-2014, 04:06 AM
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so was it plugged?
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  #36  
Old 08-08-2014, 10:22 AM
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Idk I haven't had time to test it yet, I will today after work. I'm thinking just put power to it and then try to blow through it
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2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....
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  #37  
Old 08-08-2014, 08:40 PM
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I tested it today, the way it works is when theres no power supply, the valve is open, I can blow air right through it no problem. When you hook it up to power it shuts and doesn't let any air escape. What I did notice though is I could hook it up to power (valve closed) and if I was blowing decently hard into it when I disconnected the power to try to open the valve, the valve would stay shut until I stopped blowing as hard and would then open. So it seems that the valve has an issue opening under heavier pressures. Believe me when I say I wasn't blowing that hard into it either, I highly doubt I can generate anywhere near as much pressure as what gets built up in the tank...... So is this thing just fagged out and cant open under pressure anymore?????
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2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....
DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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  #38  
Old 08-09-2014, 03:59 PM
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that would make sence but when removing the cap hearing hissing noise should have relieved the pressure? still doesnt mean after its been heated up/commanded closed for a length of time the valve wont stick?
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  #39  
Old 08-09-2014, 04:31 PM
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When I remove the cap I don't hear any hissing or any pressure relief. What happens is the fuel cant make it past the filler neck. The neck fills up and the fuel just stays there. Its not making its way into the tank. Idk whats going on, replaced the vent valve today and the car still wont take fuel. I tried to fill it up and I could only fill up the filler neck. Brought it home, let the pressure out via the green fitting under the hood and the fuel made its way into the tank...... I had the code scanned again while I was out with the car. I have a p0440. and a p1415 which is a secondary air injection bank 1, drivers side air check valve. The p0440 code is pretty vague.
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1993 BGGM Z28, stock LT1, T56, 175k on original motor, basic bolt-ons. 273 whp, 308wtq. SOLD
2001 Black WS6 TA Stock....for now....
DD: 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab sport, 6 inch RCX lift, 35x13.5 tires, 20x9 Fuel wheels, 20% tint all the way around, ZZ customs exhaust, Diablosport Trinity T1000 programmer.
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  #40  
Old 08-10-2014, 12:02 AM
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I'm confused as to why a part of the evap system would cause this issue. Isn't there a vent valve?
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